If you’re a reader of my blogs, you’ve probably realised that I love Norway. I’ve been going there for over 30 years and have climbed, skied, walked and kayaked all over the country. I’ve studied the Vikings, its WW2 history, geography and geology.
It was time to return again to kayak with my friends Laila and Christian, together with five friends from home. We’d been planning the trip for months and met in Bergen in early September for another trip.
We took the ferry to Rosendal and drove the steep road to Dam Mosevatn. This remote Hydro Generation plant has lakes dammed high in the mountains, and at the top is the beautiful Folgefonna glacier. Our first day paddle was across the beautiful Insta Mosevatnet lake and towards the glacier face. For some, this was their first day in a kayak, and the still waters, glacier wall and peace was the perfect start to their kayaking career. It was lovely to see the initial fears soon melt way as we approached the ice and the sheer size of it gave people a sense of real awe. The only noise was of water rushing down the rocks and wind gently moving over the water. I felt back at home, paddle in hand, in the remote outdoors, with friends and feeling alive.
We toasted the evening by the fire, with bright moonlight and a bottle of ‘A Musing Moment 93.209’ from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.
For a different perspective, we walked over the hills to take in the huge vista of open country, rocks clad with beautiful lichens, pools surrounded by thick mosses and cotton grass waving in the wind. There was hardly a soul to be seen, yet we were only two hours drive from Bergen. I wondered what it would be like at home in the UK..?
After a bracing swim in the glacial water of 4C (no wetsuits), we set off NW to this island of Tysnes. This part of Norway has many ferries and what impressed me was their conversion to electrical power. The ferry connects to a tower as it docks and charged the batteries as we unload and load. Norway has always been at the forefront of electrical innovation, but with a small population and hoards of hydro electrical power, I’m not surprised.
We camped in a peaceful bay at Klubben Friluftslivsomrade, and watched the full moon rise. Here we were joined by my good friend Ketil, a stalwart of paddling trips with me. He’s a quiet man, aways smiling, but wonderful company. This island is his home as he described many ski and mountaineering routes in the local hills. I can see a return winter trip coming up.
The moon beams shone through our fire smoke and the air was still. We paddled silently into silken waters, lit only by twilight and toured around in perfect peace.
The next morning dawned bright and warm, so we paddled to the viking site at Arbakka. Excavations into the mounds have revealed burials and grave goods, from over 1500 years ago and the site was turned into a trading post in 1898. Western Norway traded by sea as roads were poor. The store finally closed in the 1960s when this changed and is now preserved as a beautiful museum.
It was time to take the ferry north and head into the islands NW of Bergen. Time soon passes, and we arrived at the village of Alveim late into the evening. Another twilight paddle was to come, across to the island of Bordevika. A well learned lesson in the outdoors is to have your head torch available at all times. Thankfully mine was already in my hand as we landed in the dark and I was soon helping folk ferry kit across to an idyllic campsite.
We enjoyed more beautiful weather, and toured around the archipelago, before it was time to head back to Bergen, and then home.
I find a great deal of enjoyment watching people grow. Some on the trip had barely paddled a stroke before, yet within a week they were confident and smiling from stem to stern. For me, this is one of the greatest gifts that can be given.
My thanks to Laila and Christian for their sterling guiding, to Terra Nova Equipment who supplied me with the excellent Vault Duo Tent and to Grangers who keep my kit clean and dry.
We’re hoping to run another trip in May 2025. Any takers..?