Expeditions

Greenland 2022 – The Big Sky…

by Nigel Vardy
September 22, 2022September 23, 2022

It didn’t seem five minutes since I had returned from Sea Kayaking in Greenland, before I was heading north again. This time it was to mountaineer, but the sea would play it’s part also. I joined Simon Yates to head towards Mikis Fjord and tackle a myriad of unclimbed peaks.

I’ve never been good on boats, in fact I can get sea sick just looking at one, so the idea of sailing from Iceland the the Greenlandic coast filled me with fear. I loaded up my kit bag with coats, crampons and kwells in the hope of keeping myself something like sane. It promised to be kill or cure.

by Nigel Vardy
August 5, 2022August 12, 2022

I’ve visited Greenland a number of times, but always to ski and climb. The sea terrified me, but I was about to spend my next trip sat on my backside in a kayak. What had changed..?

The reason I ended up on my arse is pure chance. I was working on a P&O cruise ship touring the Norwegian Fjords and we docked at Bergen. I joined a day trip kayaking on an inlet close by and there met Laila Reigstad. We got on like a house on fire and stayed in touch, exchanging all kinds of thoughts and ideas about kayaking, but I was a complete novice and needed guidance. Laila filled me with confidence and offered to train me and so eventually I ended up to my backside in the sea. Sadly Covid came and put all our ideas on ice, but now we can travel again, Ice is where we’ve been.

Whilst the UK was baking, I headed north to the land of the Nanook to cool down. I met fellow paddlers Christian and Ketil in Copenhagen, before we crossed the seas to Greenland.

by Nigel Vardy
June 2, 2018June 3, 2018
8 Comments

I’m a mountaineer. I climb mountains, love mountains and speak about mountains. People drive me as wild as I do them, because of my adventures, cock ups and rescues, but I travel to other places too. I’ve bashed through dense jungles, crossed open plains and sailed oceans across the globe. During late 2017 I decided that I needed a change. The year had been a tough one and I was tired. Tired physically, tired mentally and tired emotionally. I needed a break, but wasn’t sure what to do.

Uganda 2017 – To the the Mountains of the Moon, and Back… Part 2

by Nigel Vardy
August 7, 2017August 7, 2017

We left the Bujuku Hut at 4am in our attempt to summit Mt. Speke 4890m (16.042ft). Initially the terrain was thick bog and undergrowth, but this gave way to more open ground as the sun tried to break through the dense clouds. We ascended a large scree field suffering faltering disability, reaching the ridge early morning. This is where our problems began. Thick rime ice had plastered the rocks, making what should have been a challenging scramble, impassable. The only way we could summit was to circumnavigate the peak and approach it from the opposite side. It’s all sounds so easy to read it here, but what followed was a two-hour slog up and down scree scattered boulders and exposed edges. At least the clouds broke occasionally and allowed extensive views over the range and the tongue of the Ruwenzori Glacier. This ice used to allow easy access to Ruwenzori Peak, but its retreat has made any ascent of the mountain a real challenge. Few ever venture there now because of the loose rock and unstable ridge.

Uganda 2017 – To the the Mountains of the Moon, and Back… Part 1

by Nigel Vardy
July 28, 2017July 28, 2017
2 Comments

I rarely look for adventure. Adventure finds me. The years of scouring maps and magazines for interesting places are gone. I’m extremely lucky to have wonderful friends across the world who share my passion for travel, as we love to share our experiences. Sibusiso Vilane and myself met many years ago, climbing Carstensz Pyramid in Iran Jaya. Since that day, we have been great friends. Sibusiso has had some wonderful ideas, including cross the Drakensburgs and trekking the Otter Trail. So when he said ‘how about climbing in the Mountains of the Moon in Uganda..?’ I leapt at the chance. The Rwenzori’s were extensively explored during the colonial era and even starred in Rider Haggard adventure books. The Idi Amin era saw much change, but people are back. I have to admit however being surprised when asked to bring Wellington’s as well as an ice axe, crampons and mountain boots..!Read More »Uganda 2017 – To the the Mountains of the Moon, and Back… Part 1

The ICEMAN Polar Race 2016 – Second Time Lucky..?

by Nigel Vardy
May 7, 2016May 7, 2016

My feet had hardly settled from walking in South Africa, when another trip called. I had been 33’ south on the Cape in late march and suddenly I was heading to Greenland, 72’ north. +30C was about to be replaced with -30C. I was tired, but thankfully organised for the ICEMAN Polar Ski Race…

Himlung Diary part 2 – The Haunting…

by Nigel Vardy
December 20, 2014

One of my favourite ghost films is ‘The Haunting‘. Based on the wonderfully written book by Shirley Jackson, it tells the story of a house which is haunted by a ghost you never see. Door handles move and people feel strange presences, but there is no visible spectre. Why am I writing about this when I’m mountaineering in Nepal..? Well, an old ghost came to visit me on the hill one night…

Himlung Diary part 1 – Tragedy in the Snow…

by Nigel Vardy
December 7, 2014December 20, 2014
1 Comment

I struggled to cram the last big of kit into my huge bag. It wasn’t anything technical like crampons or ice screws, or vital like my first aid kit or medication, but that half bottle of Talisker I was determined to take into the mountains. Eventually it slipped in, but I though to myself ‘after all these years, why do I still take so much stuff..?’ I was sure I’d got too much gear, but knew that Himlung was notorious for its cold weather.

by Nigel Vardy
April 19, 2013April 19, 2013
6 Comments

Standing as the tallest mountain in Europe, Mt Elbrus 5,642m (18,510ft) is not a climb to be undertaken lightly. High winds and freezing temperatures make this one of the world most notorious peaks. The west peak was first climbed in 1874 by Florence Crauford Grove.Read More »Russia 2012 – The North side of Elbrus

Tien Shan Unclimbed – Kyrgyzstan 2011

by Nigel Vardy
April 2, 2013
4 Comments

I travelled to the Kyrgyz Republic during July and August 2011 in search of empty country and unclimbed mountains. That’s exactly what a found, but there is more to this beautiful and virtually unspoiled country than meets the eye…

Nepal – 2009AD

by Nigel Vardy
December 19, 2012December 19, 2012

Ama Dablam is one of the classic mountains of the Himalayas. It is technical, remote and full of mountaineering challenges. During October and November 2009 I took on the SW Ridge and pushed my climbing to the limit…

India 2008 – Ladakh and back..!

by Nigel Vardy
October 19, 2012October 19, 2012

Ladakh offers Trekking by the Ton and Mountaineering by the Mile. In Summer of 2008 I ventured there with good friends to climb, trek and see a little of this wonderful country…

Madagascar 2007 – Seventh Heaven

by Nigel Vardy
October 5, 2012
3 Comments

I boarded the plane with some trepidation as I departed for Madagascar. The final peak in my 7 x 7 challenge was my objective and if I could climb it I would set a British Record for Mountaineering…

Ethiopia 2007 – The Roof of Africa

by Nigel Vardy
September 28, 2012September 28, 2012

My first venture into Africa will certainly not be my last! Ethiopia is a diverse country with challenges galore. At times it all got a bit too much, but I saw ancient cultures at close hand and came home with some wonderful images burned into my mind…

Indonesia 2006 – Sulphur, Stone & Ceremony

by Nigel Vardy
September 15, 2012September 15, 2012

I returned to Sumatra to make another attempt on Gunung Kerinci, before flying to Papua to climb the hardest peak of my 7 x 7 challenge – Carstensz Pyramid. The climbing went so fast that I was left with ten days to spare, so I travelled across South Sulawesi and Central Java taking in the culture of the islands…Read More »Indonesia 2006 – Sulphur, Stone & Ceremony

SE Asia 2005 – Warmer Climbs

by Nigel Vardy
August 14, 2012October 28, 2013

Being back in the tropics was quite a change of climate from my last expeditions. I experienced jungle life at its best (and wettest), climbed high peaks and experienced differing cultures and customs. Volcanic activity halted one of my climbs and a boating accident almost cost me dear, but once again I have had an incredible adventure!Read More »SE Asia 2005 – Warmer Climbs

Watkins Mountains 2004 – Arctic Peaks and Appendicitis

by Nigel Vardy
August 8, 2012
2 Comments

After climbing the two highest peaks in the Arctic and two Virgin Summits I was struck down with an illness which almost brought my trip to a halt. I recovered enough to get to Iceland, but from then on I was stuck in Hospital again!Read More »Watkins Mountains 2004 – Arctic Peaks and Appendicitis

Baffin Island 2003 – Sane Mountaineering Decisions

by Nigel Vardy
August 5, 2012August 5, 2012
2 Comments

The weather trapped us in a six day snowstorm, but we still managed to climb on this wonderful remote Island. The mountains seem to go forever, and with so many still unclimbed, this is a climbers paradise!

Named after the British explorer William Baffin – Baffin Island is one of the largest islands in the world.Read More »Baffin Island 2003 – Sane Mountaineering Decisions

Island Peak 2002 – Climbing For Cancer Research UK

by Nigel Vardy
August 4, 2012August 4, 2012

Standing at 6189m above sea level, Island Peak is a daunting challenge for anyone. But when you have suffered severe frostbite the climb becomes a dangerous venture into the unknown…Read More »Island Peak 2002 – Climbing For Cancer Research UK

The Alps 2001 – Pastures New

by Nigel Vardy
August 2, 2012

Over two years since suffering severe frostbite I was back climbing in the mountains. I summited the Allalinhorn which stands 4027m high, climbed the 200m near vertical Chere Couloir, and scrambled over the Arete du Cosmiques….Read More »The Alps 2001 – Pastures New